A visit to the third largest city of Transcarpathia, Beregovo, will give you a rare opportunity to feel abroad without leaving Ukraine. And it’s not about differences in architecture or kitchens, it’s the language barrier. Most of the city’s population – Hungarians. This becomes noticeable immediately: a breeze develops over the city Council two flags: Ukrainian and Hungarian. Signs and ads are written first in Hungarian, and then translated into the official language.
Even the native city is called by locals in the old way, as in the days of Hungary”: Beregsas. Beregovsky district вIn 1991, it received the status of a separate Hungarian Autonomous district, which was quickly recognized as illegitimate. Most local residents have had “foreign Hungarians” certificates since 2002, which make it much easier to cross the border. The city has a Hungarian Consulate, the Transcarpathian Hungarian pedagogical Institute, the Hungarian national theater named after Dula Ijes, and the Transcarpathian center reformed church. Everywhere you can see small pine wreaths, wrapped with ribbons of the colors of the Hungarian flag (red, white and green), which adorn the numerous memorial plaques of the Coast. This is a traditional way for Hungarians to honor outstanding ancestors or important events. Familiar from childhood street names (such are in any Ukrainian city), written in non-Cyrillic look exotic: “Sevcsenko utca”. Passers-by and shopkeepers speak Hungarian, and the menus of nice cafes and restaurants are written in Hungarian. But do not worry about possible misunderstandings: most of the city’s residents speak Russian, the younger generation also knows Ukrainian, and the traditional hospitality and privitlivist of Transcarpathia residents speak better than any words.
People on the territory of modern Coastal they settled long ago. There is even a version of the border settlement of the Romans Perigium, which existed here during the Roman Empire.
The outskirts of the city are the warmest places in the Transcarpathian region. Climatefavorable for growing tobacco, peaches, grapes. No wonder many people have the first Association with the word “Beregovo” – famous Winzavod, which produces “Rose of Transcarpathia” and “Berehovo”. A plant that looks more like romantic castle, located on the outskirts of the city, on Shevchenko street. High tower with a pointed roof, a Cozy garden around. And deep in the ground stretches unique basements, where the temperature is maintained all year round +12 ° C. Only official servants of Bacchus can enter the territory.
The tallest building in the city is the Church on the square Ferenc Rakoczy. This temple appeared in the XII century. The history of the Shrine is connected with a fabulous legend about the Foundation of the city. It tells the story of a shepherd named SAS and his brawling bulls. After another “bullfight” on the Bank of the river Vyrke, where the temple now stands, SAS found a pot of gold on a place trampled by cattle. For this money, the shepherd built a Church over the river. Hence, allegedly, the name of the city: “Bereg-SAS”.
Another version is reminiscent of a memorial plaque on the facade of the above-mentioned temple-in honor of Duke Lampert, the youngest son of king Beila of Hungary. It is to him that historians attribute the honor of founding a settlement in 1063, which for some time even bore the name of the founder: Lampertgaza, or Villa lamperta. And only in 1141 in the city, which was tired of the constant “tours” of the Polovtsians, king Geiza II moved from across the RhineSaxons’, «SAS». Since then, the city was called Lamperti. The name “Beregsas” first appears in documents of 1284.
It was the Saxons, allegedly, who founded the tradition of growing vines in the city, and also began to extract gold in the Muzhievo, a few kilometers from the coast.
But let’s go back to the history of the Church. The troops of Batu Khan destroyed both the city and the Shrine in 1241. However, in 1370, a new Gothic Church was built on the same site. The old Baroque entrance to the Church, which is embedded in the ground, has been preserved to this day from that time. And the tower-belfry the temple once served as an observation post. The gallery for the next ones is still there today.
In front of the main portal of the temple-a bronze bust of the king Saint Istvan, the founder of the Hungarian state.
In the Middle ages, beregsas was a significant city: since 1247, It had the status of a Royal city, and it became the center of the zhupanat (district) in 1271. In 1342, the Hungarian king Ludwig even granted the settlement the right to death penalty – quite rare in those days.
Behind the Cathedral, in the shadow of chestnuts, there is another attraction in Beregovo – the “Count’s court”. It is a long one-story manor of the Transylvanian Prince Gabor Bethlen (1629). Now there is an Amateur Museum of local lore in four halls (Director Ivan shepa), which can be visited for a nominal fee. The former stables and granary have also been preserved.
Many visitors of the city come to Beregovo to plunge into the waters of the 50-meter geothermal pool on the territory of the sports base “Transcarpathia”. Mineral water it comes here through drilling wells with a depth of 1680 meters. The outdoor pool is open all year round, so you can swim in the 30-degree water even in winter. Bathing in this water treats diseases of the skin, nervous and cardiovascular systems. Nearby there is a springboard for freestyle skiing, a sports ground, a rehabilitation center, and a sauna.
A mandatory item in the program of visiting Beregovaya is a walk through the old city center. On Kossuth square (formerly Verbevci square), a huge former Imperial court house (1908) rises among pretty two-story villas. Ferenc Yablonsky, the architect, did not restrain his creative impulses: there was even a fencing hall.
Opposite is the largest Church in the city, designed for 1,100 believers – the Lutheran Church (built in 1775, rebuilt in 1897 and 1922). The Church has a functioning organ of the firm “Rieger” (1899). The Church has three folk choirs. Nearby-Heroes ‘ square, the former city market, the first city hotel “Oroslan” (“Lion’s yard”, XVII century), as well as the Hungarian people’s theater. Quiet side streets are built up with mansions of the XIX-XX centuries. The city center is connected to the railway station (1884) by secheny street. There are many elegant houses of the late XIX century, among them – the former hotels “Royal” and “Donat”, the houses of Kubovich and Meigesh.
The fact that we are still in Ukraine, reminds decorated with memorial plaques Ukrainian gymnasium, opened in 1895 (vul. Stefanika, 4).
On mukachevskaya street, the building of the former municipal administration (1890s), the Bragg school of art, located in the former estate of the entrepreneur konta (1912), and the house of the star of the Hungarian operetta Plast Fedak, which now houses the Bishop of the Transcarpathian reformed Church, deserve attention. It is especially pleasant to walk around the city in spring, when cherry trees and magnolias are blooming everywhere.
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